London to Istanbul – Epic Rail Journey : Day 3
It was an early start for our second three country day of the trip as we took the Railjet service through southeast Germany, across Austria and in to the northwest of Hungary before arriving in Budapest. This was the first service of the trip that didn’t seem to require compulsory seat reservations and as a consequence was very busy with the vestibules packed full.
We were able to relax in our seats and watch the scenery glide past the windows, including a along stretch running next to the Danube. We’d taken our lunch with us but I went to explore the dining car anyway, always on the lookout for beer options, and struck lucky. With Railjet services being operated by Austrian Railways, ÖBB, they stocked a good selection of Austrian beers, albeit from macro producers. I settled back in to my seat and enjoyed 3 bonus Austrian ticks as the world rolled by before our late afternoon arrival in the Hungarian capital.
After checking in to our hotel close to the river our thoughts turned on where to spend the evening of our 25th Wedding Anniversary. After a short deliberation we decided that a vary appropriate place for us to eat would be KOLBIzz Sausage & Beer House. Beer & Sausage. Perfect. Situated on a pedestrianised square this bar has a large outdoor seating area with the indoor area being nice and cosy. Given the noticeable increase in temperature we opted to sit in the cooler interior, which I tend to prefer anyway as I can get a good view of activity at the bar. With 9 taps this is the main outlet for Hoptop Brewery with the majority of the taps given over to their beers. Not for the first time the girl serving us struggled with the concept that we were going to try all of the beers on offer, and that we didn’t just want to have a taster before choosing one. As to the sausages, both of our dishes were excellent!
KOLBIzz Sausage & Beer House, Budapest, Madách Imre tér 2, 1075 Hungary
Once we finished here we walked for a couple of minutes around the corner to get to Madhouse Bistro & Bar, one of several bars in the city run by Mad Scientist Brewery. This was the first Hungarian brewery I encountered and I have enjoyed everything I have ever tried by them over the years. With 24 beers available on tap, a mix of their own plus guests, there was no shortage of choice. In the end we managed to sample 10 of them, including some of the mead variants they produce. This is a large, airy, bar with plenty of seating including an outside area. Clearly a popular venue with several large groups meeting up for an evening out. When we finished here Mrs MA decided that the day had been long enough and so she made her way back to the hotel whilst I continued exploring.
MADHOUSE BISTRO & BAR, Budapest, Anker köz 1-3, 1061 Hungary
My third stop of the night was a brewery tap that I hadn’t picked up in my planning but was discovered on Untappd when we arrived, Parabolic Lázárus Brewery was less than 10 minutes walk from Madhouse. It is a brewery and taproom in a basement offering 6 of their own beers on tap. I tried a flight of 5 of them, and as I was the only customer by then I fell in to conversation with the owner/brewer. After a short while I had a new experience when he declared “let’s see what you scored them then” as he called up my Untappd ratings and proceeded to tell me why they were wrong! There was nothing nasty about, he was rightly proud of his beers, and I explained the rationale behind each of my scores. I have always said that I am prepared to justify my opinions on any beer in a constructive way to the brewer, and have done on many occasions, but this is the first time it was started with me being put under the spotlight!
Parabolic Lázárus Brewery, Budapest, Lázár u. 4, 1065 Hungary
I had another brewery tap on my hit list for the evening but it was due to close in around 40 minutes and Google Maps was telling me it was a just over 25 minute walk. Around 16 minutes later I was stood outside. The lights were on, but the door was firmly shut. I eventually found a doorbell which I rang. After a short wait the door was opened and it was made clear to me that they had closed for the night, well before the advertised time. Not happy.
Thankfully there was an emergency Plan B I could use as MONYO Tap House, taproom for MONYO Brewery, was a very short walk away, and it was open. They had a dozen of their own beers on tap, but unfortunately no flights. I ended up standing at the bar talking to the barman and a “character” of a local. Beers were tried and somehow local spirits ended up being consumed. I managed to get back to the hotel without incident, and I was very grateful that I didn’t have to get up early the next day!
MONYO Tap House, Budapest, Kálvin tér 7, 1092 Hungary