London to Istanbul – Epic Rail Journey : Day 11
The first target for today was what would be my first ever visit to a mosque, Ayasofya-i Kebir Cami-i Şerifi, better known as Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque. The area outside when we arrived was predictably chaotic with guides offering their services to anybody that looked like a tourist. We were just going to buy a ticket and queue, but were warned that it may take some time to gain admission. Another guide approached us and said that if we took his services then we would be fast tracked straight in and he would be able to explain everything to us once inside. We succumbed, even though it cost us just over £100 for the pair of us. As foreigners we were only permitted to visit the upper floor, but this gave a good view over the floor of the mosque. I knew it had been both a church and a mosque but I hadn’t realised that up until relatively recently it had been merely a museum. We did gain something by having a guide, but I wouldn’t say it was worth the price we ended up paying.
After a refreshment break we decided to head to the other side of the square to take a look at Sultanahmet Camii, The Blue Mosque. What a contrast, the only delay was waiting for the lunchtime prayers to finish and we were near to the front of the rapidly growing queue when they started to let people in. No admission fee, save for a voluntary donation as you left, and few restrictions as to where you could wander.I also thought it was the much nicer building with the contrast between the two being akin to the difference between a dark gothic cathedral and the light-flooded space of La Sagrada Familia.
After a bit more wandering around we made our way back to the hotel where Mrs MA decided it was time for a rest. My research before the trip had thrown up very few bar options, but once in the city Untappd gave a few more, albeit a long way out of the centre. Mrs MA opted against joining my exploration so we agreed I would visit 2 or 3 bars and then return to the hotel for dinner later on. A couple of the options were in the Beşiktaş and as I knew there was a European football match there the next day it was an easy choice to head that way tonight.
A tram and a bus got me out to my first stop Citra Gastropub by 3 Kafadar. This is a cosy bar that serves as the tap for 3 Kafadar brewery. 12 taps offer mostly their own beers plus Efes. The original barman struggled a little with English so he called another who turned out to be the manager. A very pleasant time was had trying all the beers and talking all things beer, including the growing Turkish beer scene.
Citra Gastropub by 3 Kafadar, Akat, Yaren Sk. evrim apt, 34726 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye
My next destination was the one recommended to me in Sofia, Bosphorus Brewing Company. The bar is still called this but the brewery was renamed during covid to Knidos. It is not fully a basement bar but it is several steps below street level offering a much cooler environment. Half a dozen of their beers were available as a flight.
Bosphorus Brewing Company, Esentepe Mah, Gayrettepe, Yıldız Posta Cd. No:1 D:1A, 34394 İstanbul, Türkiye
The final bar of the day was only a couple of streets away from the stadium so I was glad not to visit on match day. Craft Beer Lab is a sprawling venue that offers 18 beers on tap, a mixture of international brands and local Turkish breweries. Conscious of time I just had a flight of 4 beers before making my way back to the hotel and dinner in their rooftop restaurant.
Craft Beer Lab, Sinanpaşa, Şair Nedim Cd. No:4, 34353 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye